September 15, 2021

A city guide to Dresden, eastern Germany’s rebuilt cultural masterpiece

Where to go in the evening

1. Blue Note: Small, dimly lit and cosy, with a drinks menu as long as your arm, this local gem plays live jazz into the early hours to an enthralled crowd. Bands range from small-time outfits to national and even international artists, but whoever’s on stage, you’re guaranteed to have a good time. Arrive around 8pm to bag a choice seat by the bar.

2.Bautzner Tor: On entering this pub, you’ll be forgiven for wondering if you’ve accidentally walked into a museum, as its large central room is stuffed full of defunct East German gadgets. In fact, this is the official brewery tap of craft beer company Neustädter Hausbrauerei. Local beer in Dresden is excellent, so try whatever special is in season, as well as sampling the Rot, Helles and Hanf options, available year-round.

3. Frauenkirche: The Frauenkirche’s cavernous domed ceiling makes for compelling acoustics, and the church regularly holds evening concerts. Many acclaimed classical musicians, including oboist Albrecht Mayer, have performed here, playing moving renditions of works by world-famous German composers like Bach and Beethoven.

Where to stay

1. Am Schillerplatz Bed and Breakfast: This B&B has spotless rooms in the characterful environs of a 400-year-old home. It offers views of the Loschwitz Bridge, also known as the ‘Blaues Wunder’ (‘Blue Wonder’), a sky-hued steel structure connecting the districts of Blasewitz and Loschwitz. Don’t miss the farmers’ market that sets up outside on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

2. Penck Hotel Dresden: Local painter and sculptor A R Penck gained international recognition for his neo-expressionist pieces, reflective of tribal art. This design hotel houses countless artworks by the artist, including a gigantic sculpture rising from its rooftop. Rooms are ultra-modern, minimalist and sleek, and the location is ideal for inner-city wandering, located just five minutes from the old town.

3. Schloss Eckberg: As the country with the greatest number of castles, nowhere does sleeping in a fairytale tower seem more apt than in Germany. Schloss Eckberg sits above the Elbe, all crenellated walls, marble columns and sweeping lawns. The castle also has its own vineyard, bringing a whole new meaning to ‘local wine’.